Delectable kebabs, fragrant biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has forever been a dream destination for epicures, with locals and travelers alike swearing by its exquisite cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, UNESCO honored it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – including it in a prestigious group of global cities and igniting hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this status, it becomes part of a international community of more than four hundred cities across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "creativity as a key factor of development that sustains urban life".
The honor "demonstrates its centuries-old food heritage and dynamic gastronomic culture," as noted by a representative from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to earn a spot in this prestigious list of seventy urban centers worldwide.
A City Defined by Food
The recognition for this venerable city arrives as no surprise to its locals or avid food lovers. Many echo the opinion that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO designation, this cherished, chaotic, and eclectic city – the capital of India's most populous state – is now in the global gaze for what has always defined its essence: an unparalleled devotion for food.
"'The day's menu, how will it be cooked' is a continued conversation from waking up until night in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are often judged by the standard of food that is produced in your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of the Nawabs – as it's widely known after its historic wealthy Muslim rulers – is famed for its succulent kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were conceived, perfected, and taken to extraordinary levels in their opulent kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were hubs of culinary innovations, fusing Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were developed. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was invented to feed an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists ground the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, slow heat, with the container's cover tightly sealed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
In addition to the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only celebrates fresh harvests but also provides the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Virtually on many street corners, there are tiny kiosks and stalls – lesser-known gems that are immensely favored by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, throngs of people start gathering from 5 am at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in clay glasses, along with incredibly soft buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can head to a unpretentious joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also boasts unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert available in the winter. The process of making it is intricate and complicated. The artisan whisks the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique light consistency.
On cold mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many however note that their children are reluctant to master the craft.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has noted that the city's immense food legacy puts it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – influenced by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is hoped, will inspire more people globally to discover these stories and visit the city to delight in the food wonders of Lucknow.
